Tuesday, May 9, 2017

Appalachia

We had to plan our trip north but had no idea where we were going. Thank goodness for the internet. We knew the southwest mountains of Virginia were supposed to be great. We started our search in that area for a good rails to trails and found the New River Trail. The New River was running muddy and high due to all of the rain and the air was wonderfully cool so floating the river was out.

Fries, VA

After maneuvering the winding narrow backroads, we arrived at the New River Trail RV Campground in Fries (Freeze)  to a great greeting and pumpkin raisin muffin. Our site was along a babbling creek. It was actually babbling. When we called to make the reservation, the owner said he was down in the "holler" and would have to let us know if he could accommodate us. A holler is a small valley in Appalachia. Who knew?







Galax, VA

We went to the trailhead in Galax (gay-lax), considered the Mountain Music Capitol) for our first bike ride.



New River Trail


New River Trail is a 57-mile linear park that follows an abandoned railroad right-of-way with 2 tunnels, 3 major bridges, nearly 30 small bridges and a shot tower.
The mornings were chilly with temps in the low 50s on the old Pulaski section of the railroad. We kept adding clothes until we were ready to brave the cool wind and occasional raindrops.


Shot Tower was built more than 200 years ago to make ammunition for the firearms of the early settlers. Lead from the nearby Austinville Mines was melted in a kettle atop the 75-foot tower and poured through a sieve, falling through the tower and an additional 75-foot shaft beneath the tower into a kettle of water.



Here a shot of varying size would be molded, sorted and shipped down river where it would be sold to hunters, traders, and merchants.
View from the top window of the shot tower.

77 stairs to the top of the tower.



When trains were 100-500feet from a bridge or tunnel, a warning sign (the chains hanging from the post) would warn anyone walking on top of the train to duck, hazard ahead.

The names of the towns such as Fancy Gap and Sugar Grove are as eclectic as the people.

Blue Ridge Music Center

The Appalachian mountains are the home of Hillbilly, Folk and Bluegrass music. The more we learned about the area, the longer we stayed.  On the Blue Ridge Parkway is the Blue Ridge Music Center just a few miles outside of Galax in North Carolina. Fortunately for us, they opened for the season the day we arrived.
Local musicians play and jam in the afternoons from noon until 4pm.


I liked the bass player's little shoe on the bass.
There were a couple of other musicians that would join in at times with this group. The 15 year old girl with her father and grandfather on the right.  Between songs they would tell stories of their lives and living in Appalachia. It is said that there are more musicians per capita in this area than anywhere else. They all played more than one instrument.

We took a tour of the Music Center exhibits.


The Crooked Road consists of 26 exhibits in this area  and 330 miles driving route connecting 9 major heritage music venues, jams and concerts along the backroads. We can listen to 5 minute recordings on the FM radio within a 1/2 mile of the exhibit.


The fiddles in  downtown Galax spell LOVE.



We were pretty hungry after the bike ride and music. Galax BBQ which did not disappoint.

While taking a walk in Fries, a large class A RV was driving down the middle of the road. After he passed, we realized that he had to drive over the middle line to get down the road. The road was not divided down the middle and no parking was allowed on either side.

Mike says you only get half a lane entering town and extra room when you leave.
 Southeastern Virginia has beautiful place with rolling hills that moves at a slower pace. We loved our time here.

Friday, May 5, 2017

Southport, NC

 The ferry from Fort Fisher to Southport was a pleasant 30 minute ride across the Cape Fear River. We hopped on our bikes and headed over for the day.



Southport stole our hearts. But that could have been due to the perfect sunshiny day with a mild breeze, 70 degree temps and we had arrived before tourist season. A perfect day for a bike ride after riding the ferry.


Passing the Southport Ferry while crossing the river.

Old Baldy Lighthouse built in 1817

We came upon the Old Burying Ground as we entered Southport.

Not long after the English began building Fort Johnston at Southport in 1745, a
small community began to develop around the military garrison near the mouth of the Cape Fear River. Ships coming into the river needed pilots and the protection of the fort
offered an ideal place for harbor pilots to settle. They were joined there by traders and
others.

The little village at Fort Johnston needed a place to bury its dead and it was not long before the
first graves were prepared in what is the Burying Ground. By the time
the community was designated the town of Smithville in 1792, the little cemetery had
already been in existence for a number of years.

Monuments in the cemetery honor some of the most notable individuals in American
history, among them Governor Benjamin Smith, for whom Smithville was named. Born in 1756, Smith served valiantly in the American Revolution under the command of General George Washington.


Another notable monument in the cemetery honors General Robert Howe. Also a noted officer of the American Revolution, Howe served in both the Deep South and under George Washington in New York and New Jersey.

The Old Smithville Burying Ground is also a place to gain a true sense of the often tragic
relationship between Southport and the waters of Cape Fear. On a Friday the 13th (April 13, 1877), the pilot boat
Mary K. Sprunt disappeared into a severe storm and was never seen again. Five men lost their lives in the wreck, three of them related by marriage. Monuments stand to their memory in the ancient cemetery.

The old Burying Ground also contains the graves of Confederate soldiers and others who lost their lives in the service of their state, country and community. The local community treasures the cemetery and it is an important part of local history and legend.




A great day for a farmer's market with music.

Boat pilot tower
For more than 250 years, the tower served as a watch tower for river pilots. The tower watchman was responsible for sending river pilots out to help ships navigate the entrance of the Cape Fear River.
Modern communication systems made the tower obsolete

More historic homes


A place to ponder
 
 We spent some time at the State's Maritime Museum. The maritime history of the lower Cape Fear River, and contains a detailed collection that covers shipwrecks, piracy, the Civil War, commercial fishing, hurricanes, and a number of other natural and manmade events that have left a permanent mark on the North Carolina coast



This periscope went through the top of the building allowing us to see across the bay.


Lunch at the Provision Company was suggested by the visitor's center lady. We sat and watched the boats entering Cape Fear River from the Intercoastal Waterway as we enjoyed our seafood. Over our days along the coast, we had some great shrimp and grits, shrimp and crab cakes and other tasty seafood.

On our drive to Virginia, we stopped in Asheboro, NC at a cute RV park. We only wanted electric and water since we were only there for one night. They placed us all alone on the lower end of the campground near the creek. It was nice to walk along and listen to the water but I knew there was a storm predicted and was a little leery even though we were above the water. In the night the heavy rain waxed and waned. At one point, I couldn't tell if the swooshing sound was the water or wind in the trees. Mike actually took the flashlight out and checked the creek when the rain eased to make me feel better. At 3am our phones got a text for a tornado warning.  The next morning, the creek was 3 times fuller than the night before but we were good and bid our adieu before the next predicted round.


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