Appalachia

We had to plan our trip north but had no idea where we were going. Thank goodness for the internet. We knew the southwest mountains of Virginia were supposed to be great. We started our search in that area for a good rails to trails and found the New River Trail. The New River was running muddy and high due to all of the rain and the air was wonderfully cool so floating the river was out.

Fries, VA

After maneuvering the winding narrow backroads, we arrived at the New River Trail RV Campground in Fries (Freeze)  to a great greeting and pumpkin raisin muffin. Our site was along a babbling creek. It was actually babbling. When we called to make the reservation, the owner said he was down in the "holler" and would have to let us know if he could accommodate us. A holler is a small valley in Appalachia. Who knew?

Galax, VA



We went to the trailhead in Galax (gay-lax), considered the Mountain Music Capitol) for our first bike ride.

New River Trail



New River Trail is a 57-mile linear park that follows an abandoned railroad right-of-way with 2 tunnels, 3 major bridges, nearly 30 small bridges and a shot tower.

The mornings were chilly with temps in the low 50s on the old Pulaski section of the railroad. We kept adding clothes until we were ready to brave the cool wind and occasional raindrops.

Shot Tower was built more than 200 years ago to make ammunition for the firearms of the early settlers. Lead from the nearby Austinville Mines was melted in a kettle atop the 75-foot tower and poured through a sieve, falling through the tower and an additional 75-foot shaft beneath the tower into a kettle of water.

Here a shot of varying size would be molded, sorted and shipped down river where it would be sold to hunters, traders, and merchants.

View from the top window of the shot tower.

77 stairs to the top of the tower.

When trains were 100-500feet from a bridge or tunnel, a warning sign (the chains hanging from the post) would warn anyone walking on top of the train to duck, hazard ahead.

The names of the towns such as Fancy Gap and Sugar Grove are as eclectic as the people.

Blue Ridge Music Center

The Appalachian mountains are the home of Hillbilly, Folk and Bluegrass music. The more we learned about the area, the longer we stayed.  On the Blue Ridge Parkway is the Blue Ridge Music Center just a few miles outside of Galax in North Carolina. Fortunately for us, they opened for the season the day we arrived.

Local musicians play and jam in the afternoons from noon until 4pm.



I liked the bass player's little shoe on the bass.

There were a couple of other musicians that would join in at times with this group. The 15 year old girl with her father and grandfather on the right.  Between songs they would tell stories of their lives and living in Appalachia. It is said that there are more musicians per capita in this area than anywhere else. They all played more than one instrument.

We took a tour of the Music Center exhibits.

The Crooked Road consists of 26 exhibits in this area  and 330 miles driving route connecting 9 major heritage music venues, jams and concerts along the backroads. We can listen to 5 minute recordings on the FM radio within a 1/2 mile of the exhibit.

The fiddles in  downtown Galax spell LOVE.

We were pretty hungry after the bike ride and music. Galax BBQ which did not disappoint.

While taking a walk in Fries, a large class A RV was driving down the middle of the road. After he passed, we realized that he had to drive over the middle line to get down the road. The road was not divided down the middle and no parking was allowed on either side.

Mike says you only get half a lane entering town and extra room when you leave.

 Southeastern Virginia has beautiful place with rolling hills that moves at a slower pace. We loved our time here.

Vicksburg, MS

We have attempted to plan a bike ride on the Natchez Trace several times in the past. We are finally getting that chance to ride the Trace . The weather has been pretty volatile on this trip and rain in the forecast for next week. We decided to skip Natchez and the beautiful antebellum mansions and head north to Vicksburg before starting our ride on the Natchez Trace. As we entered Mississippi, (yes, I did just go M I S S I S S I P P I while typing) we crossed the mighty and muddy Mississippi River.

Looks like I am having some shutter problems with my camera.

We had changed our plans several times on our way here. After getting settled in, we had to spend some time figuring out how we wanted to handle the next few weeks.  First, we had to see Vicksburg and learn more of the history during the Civil War.

As we were preparing to start our ride, a couple of cyclist called out to us that they were doing the county loop if we would like to join them. We said thanks but we wanted to see the Park. Half way through our tour, those two flew by as they finished their ride. They were moving at a pretty good clip. Glad we passed on that ride.

We rode our bikes on the 16 mile hilly loop through Vicksburg's Military Park. The hills were beautiful and no traffic since it was a Sunday morning. 

Our ride was slow as we stopped to read about the War and look at the many statues and monuments throughout the park.

Most of the road was one way and we started on the Union side.

Vicksburg is  best known for the role that it played in the Civil War. President Abraham Lincoln told his civilian and military leaders, “See what a lot of land these fellows hold, of which Vicksburg is the key! “ On July 4, 1863, the key was placed in Lincoln’s pocket with the surrender of Vicksburg ending a 47-day siege that was intended to starve the city into submission. The surrender of Vicksburg, together with the defeat of General Robert E. Lee at Gettysburg the day before, marked the turning point in America’s defining war.

You could go to each battle area and imagine the soldiers on the hills down in front of us.

As we traveled along the road the signs would tell about the roles of the different states and their divisions.

Mike is very small in this picture on the right hand side with his bike checking out the hills ahead. A local bike rider rode along with us for a while asking about where we were from and giving us tips about the Natchez Trace. He is using the Military Park to train for the Ride the Rockies in Colorado.

During the Civil War, soldiers that succumbed to wounds or disease were typically buried close to where they died. If their name was known, their grave could be marked with whatever materials were at hand — most commonly the etching of the name into a wooden board.

Vicksburg National Cemetery has 116 acres, and holds the remains of 17,000 Civil War Union soldiers, a number unmatched by any other national cemetery. 13,000 names are unknown. As a mom, I think of all of the broken hearts.

This goes on over and over through the fields and hills.

The Confederate side was on the down hill ride of those 16 miles.

The hilltop they were fighting for overlooks where the Mississippi River used to run but was diverted. This is the Yazoo Diversion that was left.

After riding the loop, we left the park and headed into historic Vicksburg to see the waterfront murals and what they had to offer.

 The Yazoo Mississippi River Station

We found Monsour's at Biscuit Company that used to ship its biscuits down the river but is now just a restaurant and bar. We stuck our heads to see what they had for a snack before we ended our ride and headed home. A couple was sitting at a table and told us we had to stop and have brunch. We only had two miles back to our truck and decided to take their advice since they have Sunday Brunch there every Sunday. We had a pleasant visit while savoring some excellent food.

The waitress of 20 years insisted in showing us around the establishment. I took pictures of everything she told me that I should.

Another man came in and sat near us and asked if we rode the Military Park in less than an hour. Yeah, right. There is something disarming about a bike or maybe it's just southern hospitality.

Our adventure is turning out to be mighty fine.